Method of making jewel-settings.



No. 659,016. Patsnted Oct. 2, |900.'

A. COLLIER.

MEZTHUD 0F MAKING JEWEL SETTINGS.

(Appumicnmd Feb. ze, 1900.)

`IN Model.)

' .IIII'III'IIIIIIIIII Nrrnn STATES4 PATENT OFFICE ALFRED COLLIER, OFEAST ORANGE, NEW JERSEY, ASSIGNOR TO M. B, BRYANT 95 CO., OF vNEW YORK,NI Y.

METHOD OF MAKING JEWEL-SETTINGS.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 659,016, dated October2, 1900.

nppnoanon ned pebrimy 26,1900. serial No. 6,454. (No man.)

To a/ZZ whom, it may concern:

Beit known that I, ALFRED COLLIER, a citizen of the United States, and aresident of East Orange, in thecounty of Essex and State of New Jersey,have invented a new and useful Method of Manufacturing Settings forJewels, of which the following is a specification.

My invent-ion relates to a method of manufacturing settings for jewelswith the object in -view of providing a simple and effective Way ofproducing articulated crampingprongs or cramps, as they are commonlycalled, integral with their base for setting gems or stones of varioussizes, shapes, and qualities in such a manner as to expose their bases,as well as their sides and tops, to the light. Hitherto it has beencustomary to form the cramping-prongs on a separate piece of metal andsubsequently weld or solder them to the base.

My present invention contemplates forging, swaging, or pressing a pieceof metal into a blank which shall present a head having thecramping-prongs formed in relief on its side walls or side and end wallsand subsequently removing the `metal from the central portion of thehead to an extent sufficient to leave the cramping-prongs articulatedand projecting from the base of the head. This head, consisting of abase and the articulated prongs, may be made integral with the band of aring or separate therefrom and may assume any shape and size, dependingupon the article to which it is to be applied.

In the accompanying drawings, Figure l represents a view of a blank inside elevation after the metal has been forged, swaged, or pressed intoshape to form the head with the cramping-prongs in relief on itsexterior walls, the band of a ring being here shown integral therewith.Fig. 2 is a top plan view of the same. Fig. 3 is a side View of theblank after the metal has been removed from the head by coring'it atintervals to leave the cramping-prongs articulated. Fig. 4 is a top planview ot the same. Fig. 5 is a bottom plan view. Fig. 6 is a view in sideelevation, showing the blank curved into circular form to complete thering, with the groups of cramping-prongs in position to receive the gemsor stones. Fig. 7-is atop plan view of a setting independent of theband, and Fig. 8 is a top plan view of a setting of a diiferent form.

In the form shown in Figs. l to 6, inclusive,

Vthe head portion of the blank is denoted by A. The arms which extend inopposite directions from the head and which are finally to be curved toform the circular ring are denoted by a a' and the prongs formedintaglio on the side walls of the head A are denoted by B. The openingswhere the head has been cored out to articulate the prongs are in thepresent illustration five in number, the center opening C and thoseimmediately ad- Vjacent to it, C O2, being similar in size and largerthan the two end openings denoted by c and c'. The number of suchopenings'for coi-ing out the head depends in every instance upon thenumber of 'groups of crampingprongs to be formed or number of jewels tobe set, and the size of the openings is determined by the diameter ofthe body of metal in the head intermediate of the group of prongs raisedon its surface. It is obvious that for larger gems or stones there wouldbe a greater space within the particular groups of cramping-prongs whichreceive it and for a smaller gem or stone a lesser space. The severalopenings are here shown as separated at their bases; but in someinstances it may Vbe found desirable to so core the metal of the4plunger or hammer is forced into a blanksuch, for example, as thatshown in Fig. l of the drawings-a head A being raised from the piece ofmetal and the arms ad' formed, which are eventually to form the circularband of the ring. The blank so formed is then subjected toa coringoperation either by a set of drills for simultaneously removing the`central body of the head or to one or more cutters for removing a partof the central IOO the head portion A, may be subjected to a.

bending operation to bring the ends of the arms (t a' togetherIncomplete the ring. 'l`his bending operation will set the severalgroups of articulated cramping-prongs in their radial positions` readyfor receiving the gems or stones.

WhereJ the setting is formed independent of the band and in the formshown at A,

Fig. 7, to be applied to a ring or in the form shown at A2, Fig. S,suited for a breastpin, the setting may be seen red in any` well-knownor approved manner to a band or ma)- have a fastening-pin attached toits base.

What I claim isrlhe method of making settings for jewels consisting infirst forming` the crampingprongs in relief on the exterior walls of ahead and subsequently articulating the said cramping-prongs by removingthe central body of head metal, snbstantiallyas set forth.

In testimony that I claim the foregoing as myinvention I have signed myname, in presence of two witnesses, this 27th day of January, 1900.

ALFRED COLLIER. Witnesses:

FREDK. HAYNEs, EDWARD VIESER.

